明星资讯腾讯娱乐2019年09月17日 04:37:10



  The metrics will determine whether the long-planned New York Fashion Week: Men’s was the success its organizers hoped for. Yet immediate reaction to the first consolidated men’s wear week since 2001 suggested an industry in an unexpectedly buoyant mood.统计数据将验经过长期策划的纽约男装周(New York Fashion Week: Men’s)是否会像组织者预期得那么成功。不过,从人们对2001年以来的第一个联合男装周的即时反应看,这个行业正处于意想不到的蓬勃发展状态。By separating men’s wear from women’s and moving the shows closer on the calendar to a month of similar presentations in Europe, the Council of Fashion Designers of America corrected an imbalanced scheduling sequence that forced editors and buyers to wait until weeks after the shows in London, Paris and Milan to see what American designers had on offer.通过将男装从女装中剥离开来,并把男装周的时间安排得与欧洲的男装周更接近,美国时装设计师协会(Council of Fashion Designers of America)改变了之前那种不平衡状态——时尚编辑们和买家们曾经不得不在伦敦、巴黎和米兰的男装周结束几周后才能看到美国设计师们的作品。It also underscored a shift few could have anticipated in the days when the nonprofit Seventh on Sixth folded men’s wear into the distaff presentations held under the Bryant Park tents. That is the runaway growth of men’s wear, driven by generational shifts, a crazily democratized Internet and something else no one predicted: casual Friday’s positive trickle-down effect.它还突显了另一个变化。当非赢利的Seventh on Sixth(纽约时装周曾经的名字——译注)把男装夹在布莱恩特公园(Bryant Park)帐篷里举办的女装秀中时,几乎没人预料到,男装行业的发展如此迅猛。它的推动力是时代的变迁、互联网民主化的高度普及以及无人料及的另一个情况:休闲星期五的涓滴效应。“When casual Friday first hit the scene, it got interpreted into a nightmare for most men,” Michael Kors said. “ ‘Wow, you mean I get to look like a total slob?’ The reality is it tumbled down the walls,” Mr. Kors added, making way for “an entrepreneurial global man who is interested in fashion for the weekend, for work clothes, for play clothes.” Fashion is not, Mr. Kors said, just for the dandies and peacocks of the world.迈克·高仕(Michael Kors)说,“休闲星期五刚出现时,大部分男人觉得它是噩梦:‘哇,你的意思是我得穿得像个邋遢鬼?’ ”他接着说,“事实明,它打破了界线”,为那些对周末时装、工作正装和运动装感兴趣的具有企业家精神和国际视野的男人们”开辟了道路。高仕说,时装不只是为那些爱打扮、爱炫耀的人设计的。In the decades since the term “metrosexual” was coined, the perception of fashion as a preoccupation of a well-shod and moisturized elite has been supplanted by an influx of mainstream lugs. For the last five years, sales of men’s wear have grown faster than women’s, with the result that every major fashion house has broadened its masculine offerings, most rushing to open flagships dedicated to the newest shopping obsessive — men.在“都会美型男”(metrosexual)这个词被造出来后的几十年里,时装不再被认为是专属于那些穿着精致、注意护肤的精英男士,而被认为是属于普通男士。在过去五年里,男装的销售额超过了女装,所以大型时装公司都增加了男装供应,大都急忙开设专门务男性的旗舰店——因为他们才是最新的购物狂。Seen in that light, a week that returned major American labels like John Varvatos to home turf took on a lot more than symbolic import. “What legitimized the week was having someone like John Varvatos come back and put his money where his mouth is,” the designer Todd Snyder said. “It put a stake in the ground.”在这种情况下,约翰·瓦维托斯(John Varvatos)等美国著名品牌在本土举办时装秀表明,纽约男装周不只是象征性地引进。“纽约男装周正统地位的确立在于约翰·瓦维托斯这样的人物回归,把钱花在自己嘴边,”设计师托德·斯奈德(Todd Snyder)说,“这相当于打地基。”Although other American designers and labels — Calvin Klein, Thom Browne — that typically show in Europe contented themselves here with presentations, rather than full-fledged fashion shows, Mr. Varvatos mounted a runway blowout with all the attendant hoopla, crowd scenes and star athletes who are fashion’s most devoted hangers-on.虽然卡尔文·克莱恩(Calvin Klein)和汤姆·布朗(Thom Browne)等通常在欧洲举办时装秀的其他一些美国设计师和品牌满足于仅在纽约举办发布会,而不是举办盛大的时装秀,但是瓦维托斯的时装秀声势浩大——参与者的兴奋,拥挤的人群,还有到场的体育明星(他们是时尚最忠诚的追随者),样样不缺。“It also says a lot that the European press and buyers came,” said Matthew Marden, the Details magazine fashion director, citing representatives from The Financial Times and foreign editions of GQ and Esquire, as well as buyers from influential British retailers like Harrods and Selfridges. “New York designers are as important as anyone else.”“很多报道称,欧洲媒体和买家们也来了,”《Details》杂志的时尚总监马修·马登(Matthew Marden)说。他以《金融时报》(The Financial Times)以及《GQ》和《Esquire》外国版的代表们以及哈罗德(Harrods)和塞尔福里奇(Selfridges)等英国著名零售公司的买手们为。“纽约的设计师和其他设计师一样重要。”And, while presentations here largely lacked the high theater of some recent shows in Paris, there were still impressive feats of showmanship, like the infinitely mirroring glass box that Thom Browne built for displaying a grouping of gray fingertip-length suits. “Everyone always says London’s avant-garde, Paris is creative, and New York is just commercial,” Mr. Marden said. “But you can’t really say that after you’ve seen Thom Browne or Duckie Brown.”虽然纽约的发布会大多缺乏前不久在巴黎举办的一些时装秀的强烈戏剧感,但这里也展现出一些令人印象深刻的表演技巧,比如汤姆·布朗为展示一组灰色长款西而布置的无限反射的玻璃箱。“大家总是说伦敦很前卫,巴黎很有创意,纽约只是商业化,”马登说,“但是如果你看过汤姆·布朗或达基·布朗(Duckie Brown)的时装秀,你就不会那样说了。”With its distorted volumes, acid palette and unexpected elegance, the Duckie Brown show was by consensus a highlight of the week. Yet it was far from the only evidence that creative spirits both rigorous (Garciavelez) and rumbustious (Boyswear) stand y to take rightful places alongside industry heavyweights. Just the chance to be seen in proximity to Ralph Lauren or Michael Kors had benefits for independent designers like Jackson McKeehan of Boyswear or Carlos Garciavelez Alfaro of Garciavelez.晃动的裤腿、耀眼的色和意想不到的优雅——达基·布朗的时装秀被公认为本届纽约男装周最精的部分。不过,它绝不是严肃的(例如Garciavelez)和喧闹的(例如Boyswear)创意精神能与业内重量级人物平起平坐的唯一据。对Boyswear的杰克逊·麦基恩(Jackson McKeehan)或Garciavelez的卡洛斯·加西亚维雷·阿尔法罗(Carlos Garciavelez Alfaro)等独立设计师们来说,有机会在拉夫·劳伦(Ralph Lauren)或迈克·高仕附近亮相让他们受益颇深。“For starting designers like myself, kicking off the week provides a level of attention previously impossible to obtain from buyers, press and on social media platforms,” Mr. Alfaro said. “I aly got appointments with Barneys, and a meeting with Saks.”“对我这种起步期的设计师来说,为本届男装周揭幕让我获得了来自买家、媒体和社交平台的很多关注。这种关注程度是之前难以企及的,”阿尔法罗说,“我已经与巴尼斯百货公司(Barneys)和萨克斯百货公司(Saks)约定会面。”“The men’s wear market is growing fast, and the week made everything more integrated in terms of the fact that men’s is its own category and its own presence,” he added.“男装市场正在迅猛发展,纽约男装周把一切整合得更好,表明男装是个独立的门类,有它自己的展示舞台,”他补充说。For Nick Wooster, the influential stylist, New York Fashion Week: Men’s was a long overdue step taken by an industry that, not atypically, was far from swift in reacting to demographic and social change.著名造型师尼克·伍斯特(Nick Wooster)认为,纽约男装周是男装业早该举办的活动。这并不奇怪,因为这个行业对客户人群的改变和社会变迁的反应远不够快。“It was a herculean effort that paid off handsomely in establishing New York as a source for great ideas,” Mr. Wooster wrote in a text message from Shanghai. Still, “It’s always the sophomore album, book, movie or collection that solidifies your reputation,” he added, referring to the next New York men’s wear week, scheduled to begin Jan. 28, 2016. “Now the real work begins.”“这是一项艰巨的活动,但它回报丰厚,有助于塑造纽约是精创意源泉的形象,”伍斯特从上海发来短信说,“一直以来,都是第二年的影集、书籍、电影或装系列能巩固你的声誉,”他补充说。他指的是计划于2016年1月28日举办的第二届纽约男装周。“现在,真正的功课开始了。” /201507/388816


  Sun Wu (535 B. C.~480 B. C.), whose courtesy name was Changqing, was born at Le#39;an (now Huimin,Shandong Province).孙武(公元前535年~公元前480年),字长卿,齐国乐安(今山东惠民)人,春秋末年著名军事学家。Revered as ;Sun Zi;, he was a well-known military strategist in late Spring and Autumn Period. To escape from domestic chaos, he took refuge in the State of Wu, where he was appointed general by the king. Under his command, the forces of Wu defeated the strong army of the State of Chu, subdued the people of the State of Yue, and deterred the states of Qi and Wei.世称“孙子”。因避乱奔吴,被吴王任命为将军,西破强楚,南越人,北威齐晋,为吴国立下汗马功劳。Sun Wu#39;s The Art of War, composed of 13 articles, was the first systematic book on military strategies and tactics in ancient China and one of the earliest works on military strategies and tactics in the world.撰有《兵法》13篇,是中国古代第一部有系统的兵书,也是世界上最早的系统精辟地论述战略战术问题的军事学著作。In his theories, the art of war lies in the strategies of conquering the enemy. He held that five factors are of pivotal importance in the military affairs, that is, dao ( the moral law ), tian (heaven), di (earth), jiang (the commander),and fa (method and discipline).在战争中,如何制敌取胜是孙子军事学理论中首要的问题,他认为有5种因素最重要,即“道”、“天”、“地”、“将”、“法”。Dao refers to political strategies, which require the monarch and his people to make concerted efforts to support the war.“道”即政治,要求君民和衷共济,上下同心同德。Tian and di refer to the natural conditions in warfare.“天”与“地”是白然条件,在战争中起重要作用。Jiang refers to the qualities of the military commander,in which “zhi (wit), xin (credibility), ren (benevolence), yong(courage), yan (strictness)” are a must.“将”指将帅的素质,孙子提出,将帅必须具备“智、信、仁、勇、严”5种品质。Fa refers to the relevant rules and regulations during warfare. Decrees must be issued and the systems of penalties and rewards must be applied to reinforce these rules and regulations and to heighten morale.“法”是制度规范,要建立健全的法令制度,运用赏罚的手段来加强法纪,激励士气。In The Art of War, Sun Wu elaborated on his strategic principles, which include ample preparations before war, better manoeuvrability over the adversaries, go-ahead offensive tactics, mobile and allied warfare, secret operations and flexible commanding without always obeying the sovereign#39;s decrees.《孙子兵法》中阐述最多、最出色的是战略战术,战前充分准备、贵以智谋取胜、掌握战争主动权、打运动战与速决战、行动神秘莫测、将帅指挥不受君主干扰,这些都是孙子的战略原则。The Art of War is rich in dialect thoughts, an example of which is Sun Zi#39;s suggestion that the interactions among climatic, geographical and human factors are pivotal in combats. Also of pivotal importance are the quick and flexible reactions to complicated situations, on which Sun Zi pointed out that ; he who can modify his tactics in relation to his opponent and thereby succeed in winning, may be called a heaven-born captain;.另外,他提出临阵击敌的战术技巧有“诡道”十四法、“四治”战法、集中优势兵力、出奇制胜、因地制宜、势险节短、讲究阵法、用兵“八戒”等。《孙子兵法》中充满了辩思想,如他强调“将”、“天”、“地”三者之间的互动互制,提出了综合天、地、人为一体的系统沦思想。他还强调变化,“能因敌变化而取胜者谓之神”。His assertion that ;all warfare is based on deception; reveals his perception of the special nature of strategics as an art.此外,他认为“兵者,诡道也”,揭示了军事的特殊规律。 /201508/393882

  When we get super-busy, some friendships fall by the wayside. But that doesn#39;t mean you can#39;t revive the relationship. Even if a lot of time has elapsed, it#39;s worth saving those nurturing friends who know you deep down and whom you can confide in and call in a crisis. Wanting to rekindle a friendship isn#39;t enough, though. You have to find a way to reconnect, which can be difficult after months or years of sporadic-or zero-contact. Here are the best first moves to make to get your friend back in your life.我们的生活越来越忙碌,朋友间的交情渐渐变淡了,但这并不代表友情就此终止。即使已很久没联系,也要留住那些真正和你心灵相通、关键时刻值得信赖的益友。然而光想不做可没用。在长久不联系、彼此都已疏远的情况下,你得突破万难敌找出一个重拾联系的方法。以下是给你的几点小建议,让你的老朋友重新回到你的生活中:1. Write Her a Facebook Message1. 去她的社交网络页面上留言Getting in touch electronically is one of the easiest ways to catch up. But what do you say in that first note? Start with some information about how busy you#39;ve been and then add in details about what you#39;ve been doing. Sharing updates about your life can encourage your friend to reply with the same openness. Once you#39;ve reconnected, make plans to see each other in person. You can#39;t substitute Facebook or other forms of social media for real relationships.网络时代,用电子方式联络是最简便不过的了。不过第一句该说什么呢?说说自己最近很忙,并可以具体说说自己到底在忙些啥。因为主动分享自己的生活能鼓励你的朋友也反馈同样的信息。一旦连络上后,可以约着出来见个面。毕竟社交网络上的交情并不能代表真正的感情。2. Reconnect Over a Favorite Pastime2. 找回旧日共处时光An activity that you used to do together can rev up a stalled friendship. Since that drew you together in the past, it should reignite positive memories and bring you closer again Start by emailing your friend with a list of shared favorite activities and suggest doing one of those. Anything from going shopping to visiting that coffee shop you both love can rebuild your bond.通过重温曾经一起做过的事可以很好地重塑友情。过往的经历会重燃你们美好的回忆,并因此让人变得更为亲密。不如给老朋友发封邮件,列上一串以前曾经一起做过的事,向TA建议再去做一次。只要能让你们重拾旧关系,无论是外出购物、或去喜欢的咖啡馆小坐,都很好。3. Send a Handwritten Card3. 寄张手写贺卡A note in the mail can be a welcome surprise for a friend you haven#39;t spoken to in a while. And there#39;s no need to wait until a holiday for an excuse to send it; a ;just because; card can restart your relationship anytime. Women are busy and don#39;t want to feel that the friendship comes with too many strings attached. So avoid mentioning the past or specific dates when you#39;re available to meet up. Instead, leave the message open-ended, explaining that you#39;re available for lunch or drinks in the next couple of weeks, she says. And remind her of the best way to contact you.对许久不联系的朋友来说,一封突如其来的信绝对是个惊喜。并非只有假期才能寄卡片,因为一张“问候卡”能立即拉近你们的关系。女人身上的负担很繁重,她们不喜欢压力太大的友情。因此,不要在卡片里跟对方约某月某日某时的具体见面事项,而应该婉转地提出自己未来几周都有空、想约她出来吃顿饭或者喝杯咖啡,并顺便附上自己的联系方式。这样更好。4. Set a Phone Date4. 找时间煲电话粥Hearing a friend#39;s voice can be a great way to reconnect. But with hectic schedules, you may wind up playing phone tag for a while before you catch each other. That#39;s why it#39;s best to schedule a chat. Leave a voicemail with times you#39;re available. It may feel weird to call out of the blue, but people understand. Once you#39;ve got your friend on the phone, be sure to set up time for another phone date or an in-person meeting, she adds.用真实的声音交流是极赞的老友联系方式。不过人人都有自己的安排,电话畅聊也许需要点运气。这就是为啥我们建议你先预约一次“电话聊天” 时间。给她留条语音信息,告诉她你什么时候有空。你可能会觉得没头没脑突然邀约挺奇怪的,但一般人们都能够理解。只要你们电话通了,那就赶紧约下一次煲电话粥的时间吧,面对面聊天也行。5. Do Something Unexpected and Kind5. 做件出其不意又充满温情的事Whether it#39;s sending a handmade present or her favorite type of cookies, preparing a small surprise can go a long way in rekindling a friendship, especially with someone you once considered a good pal. This will open your friend#39;s heart to you, which will further the friendship. Just don#39;t go overboard with a nice gesture; mailing something affordable rather than showing up at your buddy#39;s doorstep is your best bet.无论是送件手工制作的礼物还是送她最喜欢的点心,一个小礼物能大大帮助你们重拾旧日友情。这招对那种以前就是你死党的人来讲,尤其有用。它会让朋友打开心扉,从而和你继续这份友情。只别做得太过火就行,比如突然出现在TA家门口之类的……寄一个不太贵重的小礼物是最好的选择。6. Throw a Dinner Party6. 办一次晚宴派对Chances are there#39;s more than one friend you#39;ve been meaning to catch up with, so inviting over a group can restart multiple friendships at once. Let your buddies know how much they mean to you with a girlfriend gratitude dinner. Consider inviting women who all know each other, such as a few former coworkers, to simplify planning and keep the dinner conversation flowing.想同时和好几个老友保持联系?不如把她们都请到家里来。举办一场“感恩晚餐”,这会让你的朋友们明白她们对你来讲是那么的重要。最好邀请那些互相都认识的人,比如前同事之类的,这样气氛自在舒适,排队自然能大获成功。7. Invite Her Along to an Event7. 邀请朋友一起参加活动Have an extra ticket to a concert, party or book ing? Bringing your friend to a gathering can be more casual-and less intimidating-than meeting one on one. This takes the pressure off and lets both of you relax in a group environment. Rather than jumping into a serious discussion of why you drifted apart, you#39;ll be socializing with other people or enjoying some entertainment, which can make your reunion less awkward.手头有张演唱会、派对或读书会多余的票?带朋友出去参加活动,这会比单独相约见面要更轻松愉快。这样能卸下你俩身上的包袱,让你们彻底放松在团体的氛围中。与其面对面谈话时,冷不丁突然跳到“当初我为啥疏远你”之类的不愉快话题,还不如跟大伙一起出去玩,这能让你们跟别人自由互动,从而减轻尴尬的情绪。8. Try Out a New Experience8. 一起尝试新经历Creating fun memories together is a sure way to rekindle a friendship, says Chua. Email your friend about meeting up and suggest a list of activities you#39;ve been meaning to try for your get-together. Some ideas: playing paintball, going rock climbing, taking dance lessons and going trekking, says Chua. ;This is a great way to learn new things about your friend and find fresh commonalities to bond over.;一直制造欢乐回忆,绝对可以让你们重拾友情。你可以给她写封邮件,提议一起去试试最近流行的新鲜玩意儿,比如弹实战、攀岩、舞蹈课、负重徒步等等。这些新事物能让你了解到她的另一面,并让你们再度找到相通之处,从而恢复友谊。 /201301/219689




  Your wife is unfaithfulMeaning:"Your wife is unfaithful"Used in: The Baltics, Brazil, Colombia, Italy, Portugal, Spain意思:你老婆给你戴了绿帽子!适用区域:波罗的海各国、巴西、哥伦比亚、意大利、葡萄牙、西班牙 /201110/157651

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